Jim Shekhdar rowed solo across the Pacific, from Peru to Australia. Currently he is washed up in Whitsands Beach, Cornwall, at his Eddystone Cafe. I came here to talk to him about Pacific rowing.
We'd been chatting for a while on the cafe terrace when he said, 'Time for a swim. Are you coming?' As with my reluctant row on the Columbia River, I pleaded fractured hip as an excuse, and went inside to catch up on my emails. But I kept looking out of the window at the spectacular beach and rolling waves. I got a growing feeling of being in the wrong place.
My swimming costume is in California, so I cobbled together a bathing suit of strappy top and knickers, and ventured down to the (thankfully deserted) beach.
It was great - invigorating, refreshing, elemental. Jim found me and we swam out a way, bobbing about in the waves, sometimes just treading water while we talked. Our conversation seemed much more relaxed in the water than it had been on dry land.
As with the Columbia paddle, I was really glad I'd done it, and wondered why I never like the prospect of exercise, but once I'm doing it I really enjoy it. And when it's over I enjoy it even more.
[photo: sunset on Whitsands Beach]
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I received these words in an email from Frank Betush of the Adventurers' Club in LA. I was so impressed with his succinct summary of the appeal of solo adventuring, I wanted to share.
"I religiously enjoy solo bike touring - miles days and weeks of open road, long periods at a repetitive task. You used the term, 'liberating'. Yes. Turning pedals or pulling oars becomes a mantra as deep parts of the Cortical Dominion are exposed, purifying introspection. I concur with your view of solo journey psychology. It is not 'aloneness', but a sacred time to speak to 'self'.
Some brows furrow when you speak of another trip, though few among those seasoned faces at the club who share your addiction. It is not wonder-lust. I leave on each new tour, not desperate to see the opposite side of the globe, but to spend more quiet time with that human within. Once introduced to that internal persona, failing to embark, might we not forget our mental-selves?
Best luck and may 'The Oar-Force' be with you on future trips.
Frank Betush"
[Photo: I don't have a photo of Frank, but here is one he took of me]
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Today I met with Andrew Morris of PA Freight to discuss the ongoing saga of trying to get Sedna from Antigua to Miami. Andrew has stepped up after another shipping company proved unable to help. My progress across the Atlantic may have been slow, but nowhere near as slow as getting Sedna across the Caribbean.
As well as being the official race shipper, Andrew was surely the most dogged competitor in the Atlantic Rowing Race. Shortly after the start, he fell over on the boat and suffered concussion. While Andrew was in hospital his crewmate decided their row was off and flew back to France. Andrew recovered and still wanted to race but now had no partner. Over a beer one night, he persuaded Mick Dawson, one of the race officials, to drop everything and join him in rowing an ocean.
And they did it - overtaking me in the process (grrr!) - and finishing in the 7th fastest time. Impressive persistence.
I just hope Andrew can be as successful in persuading the Antiguan agents into action...
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