Big Space. Small Bikes.
Eric Larsen
04 March 2017 | Somewhere, Mongolia
Because we are here on a scouting mission, we are not entirely self-supported and we are using our Russian 4 x 4 as a way to leap frog across this vast area. As much as I would like to ride our entire route, the distance is too vast. We are here to assess a bigger route and film project so we use our Russian 4 x 4 as transfer station loading our bikes inside and shuttling up farther ahead.
This morning, we were hoping to watch a camel festival in a nearby village but the dates are somewhat arbitrary and a few locals said it wouldn't be starting for another week or so. Our original plan was to ride right from town for a few hours and then set up camp. However, with a lot of dessert to scout, we decided to leap frog ahead to gain some time on our tight schedule. Our goal for the day was to load our bikes with all the supplies we would need for a five hour ride, overnight camp and then riding in the morning. J and Balu would drive ahead and camp on their own as well. In the distance, we could see snow covered mountains that were identical to the images I have found online when I googled 'Gobi Desert Winter'.
It took us a while to get our gear sorted but finally we were riding again. I love being on my bike out here. There is a fluidity to this type of travel you don't experience on skis. Watching the mountains get closer and closer, we tried to figure out which valley might be the pass through. In the end, the route was fairly obvious.
The riding overall has been fairly straightforward. Our Trek Bikes are heavy loaded down but they handle nicely even though the washboarded gravel surface is continuously jarring. As we cycle up the pass, our pace slowed, but we didn't mind much. The rough and rocky valley walls were a welcome change from the vastness of the open steppes.
We saw a monstrous herd of goats and sheep shepherded by two young boys no more than 11 or 12 years old. We waved at them and walked our bikes in their direction. We said hello and offered some of our snacks. They smiled and rummaged around in a small cloth bag then suddenly pulled out small baby sheep no more than two hours old. We let them sit on our bikes and then said our goodbyes while wading through the largest flock of sheep and goats I've ever seen.
'There were easily five hundred animals,' Tim said later when I asked for an estimate.
An eagle circled is as we rode up toward the pass - it's stout body surrounded by massive wings. Earlier in the day, I had seen a rabbit and wondered if it had any predators- like a coyote (or the Mongolian version of coyotes) lived here. But now I realized who was the apex predator here - the eagle.
Our riding slowed considerably as the grade increased by we pedaled steadily upward. For our snack breaks, we pushed out bikes and at as it is too cold and windy to stop for more than a few minutes. Walking also gives our muscles a chance to stretch as well
After nearly five hours of riding, and opted to camp in a sunny spot versus the opposite side of the valley covered in snow. Overall an incredible day.